It’s winter and for many that means daydreams of escaping to warm beaches with a rainbow of umbrella drinks charged to the room. But one of the most glorious trips I take every December is to Yosemite National Park. Although it’s in California, it is 4,000 feet up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. It gets cold and snowy, yet remains very accessible. Just perfect for a winter-time get-away.
Yosemite National Park is a huge 1,170 square miles but most services are concentrated in Yosemite Valley, the heart of the park. During the winter, this is where most visitors spend their time. Lodging, restaurants, shopping, and museums are in the valley, plus the flat terrain makes for easy strolls through the trees and meadows. Yosemite Valley is a four hour drive from San Francisco or a six hour drive from Los Angeles. Given the unpredictable winter weather, it’s best to enter the park from lower-elevation Highway 140 through Mariposa.
Because most people think to vacation in Yosemite during the spring and summer, it is comparatively empty during the winter off-season. During a three-day stay, you will quickly recognize fellow visitors as you wander along pathways in the valley, ride the free shuttle bus to and fro, and dine in the restaurants scattered about. If you take a hike, it’s very likely you won’t see another human until you board the shuttle back to your room. Because of the fallen foliage and fewer people, it’s also a lot easier to see wildlife in the winter. Deer, coyotes, woodpeckers, raccoons and blue jays are guaranteed. On the occasional rare year, I’ve seen a bobcat and evidence of a bear. Standing under a redwood tree, watching a coyote hunt mice in a snow-covered meadow really brings me back to nature.
And, oh, the fabulous snow. It has snowed half of the times I’ve visited Yosemite in December (although I have only had to chain up once). It is a gift when it snows. You will not see a more breathtaking sight than granite cliffs, redwood trees, and waterfalls against a snowy backdrop.
What to do? There are tons of things to do in Yosemite in the winter. There’s an outdoor ice skating rink. There’s downhill and cross-country skiing at Badger Pass Ski Area, a free one-hour bus ride from the valley. There are glorious hikes all along the valley floor, flat and accessible for the less adventurous. There are also hikes up to waterfalls and splendid viewpoints for those who want to get some exercise.
Where to stay? Where to eat? The Yosemite Lodge and The Ahwahnee Hotel are your best lodging options. Both are in Yosemite Valley. You are also welcome to pitch or rent a tent in Curry Village. And if you do, more power to ya.
The Yosemite Lodge (room rates $104-131) is always my choice when I visit. It is a basic, unassuming motel-like lodge nestled at the foot of the spectacular Yosemite Falls. The Lodge started out as the headquarters for the U.S. Calvary back in 1906. The rooms are clean, comfortable, affordable, and honestly, a bit aged, but efforts are underway to update the rooms and furnishings. The Lodge has a cafeteria which serves burgers, soups, and uncomplicated entrees. There is also a white tablecloth restaurant called “The Mountain Room” which has steak, fish, pastas, an excellent wine list, and great desserts. Although the food is somewhat upscale, no need to get gussied up for “The Mountain Room” if you don’t want to. Everyone is welcome.
For a far more pampered visit, The Ahwahnee (rooms are $367 and up) should be your choice. Built in 1927 and designated a National Historic Landmark, The Ahwahnee is a feature of Yosemite itself. Tucked in the trees in the shadow of an enormous granite face, The Ahwahnee feels grand and cozy at the same time. It has been described as an “American castle” with its cathedral ceilings and walk-in stone fireplaces. The hotel is full-service, offering a concierge and valet parking. The Ahwahnee Dining Room is famous, more for its setting than for its food, but the food is improving under a new chef. If you want to eat dinner, there’s a dress code – jackets for the guys and pantsuits or dresses for the gals. Me, I’m not much for bringing dress-up clothes to a national park, so I always go the sneaky route – lunch. Lunch at The Ahwahnee Dining Room is a must on any visit. Show up in your hiking boots, that’s just fine. The lunch menu is just as upscale as dinner, with seafood, large salads, and sandwiches with special sauces, but the prices are better than at dinner. Plus, your wooded view out the 20 foot windows is better since you’ll have daylight throughout your meal.
Don’t feel like hiking? The Ahwahnee is also the setting for my absolute favorite “Yosemite in Winter” activity – the Vintner’s Holidays. This is a series of wine seminars offered weekly every November and December. Each session, four notable winemakers come to The Ahwahnee to give hour long presentations on some aspect of wine making, tasting, or history. And to help their discussions, they bring wine to sample. Imagine spending the afternoon in a redwood-beamed room in a grand historic hotel, granite fireplace at one end, renowned winemaker at the other, snow falling on pine trees outside, sipping samples of $50 wine as the guy who made it tells you how he did it. And the best part? It’s free. Sure, you can pay $140 for a five-course dinner carefully created to showcase each of four wines featured during the presentations. But, if that’s not in your budget... or you really don’t want to pack those fancy clothes... the free seminars will get you in the know while still leaving cash in your pocket.
One last insider tip. On Highway 140 in Mariposa lurks my favorite restaurant on the planet. Savoury’s opened two years ago by a caterer revered by the locals and is well worth the stop. The food is creative and flavorful without being “over-the-top.” The Pumpkin Thai soup and the Lemon Mousse exemplify the restaurant’s name. Savoury’s in Mariposa. Trust me.
