Santa Fe is a magical place. You can feel it when you arrive. Sometimes, it reaches out and chooses you- and when that happens, you have no choice but to move there. During my recent visit, I met many people to whom that had happened, and they are living there quite happily now. And no wonder, given Santa Fe’s storied past, which includes Indian, Spanish, Mexican, and now American influences. It boasts well-preserved vestiges of Pueblo life, fabulous art galleries along Canyon Road, ultra-chic hotels, elegant spas, and cuisine to die for- all 7000 ft. above sea level in the scenic Sangre de Cristo mountains.

My 5 day trip was going to be about all that- and so much more. Billed as “a soft luxury adventure experience”, parts of each day were to include an outdoor adventure. I was looking forward to getting out in the dry and earthy New Mexico landscape, for horseback riding, mountain biking, hiking, and rafting down the Rio Grand, and then at the end of each day, returning to Santa Fe for exotic spa treatments, world-class dining, and luxurious lodgings.

After the hour long climb from the airport in Albuquerque, my first stop was at the charming La Posada de Santa Fe Resort & Spa, my home for the next several days. Conveniently located downtown, only blocks from the famed town square, the resort features 6 beautifully landscaped acres hidden behind an adobe and brick wall. The 157 guest rooms and 30 suites all feature white duvet bedding, cozy lounge chairs, and flat screen LCD TV’s, with the décor featuring traditional Santa Fe colors of terra cotta and light sage. The pueblo-style resort is centered around the historic 19th century Staab House, which was once owned by the prosperous German merchant Abraham Staab. Now incorporated into the Posada (Inn in Spanish) itself, it features jazz performances 3 nights a week, a lovely bar, and is also rumored to have a ghostly resident, Abraham’s wife Julia, who likes it so much she refuses to leave. For those in need of a little pampering, the 4,500 square-foot RockResorts Spa™ offers an oasis for the senses. Try an Adobe Mud Wrap, the Pueblo Salt Glow or how about the Chocolate-Chile Wrap for a little spice. Want to do a little sightseeing while you’re in town? Well, any guest at La Posada can borrow an all-new 2008 VOLVO XC70 for the day, at no charge! www.laposada.rockresorts.com*

After I dropped my bags in my lovely room, I headed off to the 5th annual Santa Fe International Folk Art Market on Museum Hill, a 3-day outdoor affair that the airport van driver told me about. With the help of a lift from the very service-oriented La Posada, I got there just in time for several hours of coveting remarkable art and craft items from around the world. I succumbed to a pair of pastel-colored beaded dolls made by the Monkeybiz Bead Project, an organization that “creates employment, empowers women, and preserves and nurtures the tradition of South African Beadwork” http://monkeybiz.co.za, www.folkartmarket.org

I returned to La Posada just in time to change, and meet my fellow travelers in the lobby. We headed off to dinner at a joint beloved by the locals (it was packed!) called Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen, whose specialty is Margaritas. Real Margaritas. And what is that? One made with REAL tequila (100% Agave), REAL triple-sec, and REAL lemon or lime juice. Well, who can resist? The only problem though, Maria’s offers 142 different tequilas, including Blancos, Repostados, and Anejos, and an uncountable variety of margaritas. How can you choose between the Brass Monkey, the Margarita de la Patrone, the Horny Toad Margarita, or the USS Santa Fe Fast-Attack Margarita? Well, believe me, we did our best, and ate a lovely dinner too.* www.marias-santafe.com

The next morning we got up bright and early and drove off to the historic Bishop’s Lodge Resort & Spa nestled in the shadow of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The land was first purchased by Archbishop Jean-Baptiste Lamy as the perfect location for a spiritual retreat, and it still features the small and quaint chapel in which he lived and worshipped. Bishop’s Lodge itself was actually founded as a luxury resort by James R. Thorpe in 1918, and was owned and lovingly operated by the Thorpe Family until 1998. www.bishopslodge.com

Our goal though was to ride the resort’s famed ponies, described in 1927 as “reliable, sure-

footed, grain fed mountain ponies, accustomed to the trails and the desert, that are unsurpassed anywhere.” Upon arrival, we headed for the barn, where Karl Eiker and Troy Romero, two handsome ranch hands who looked like they came straight from central casting, were waiting for us, as were our horses, all decked out in fancy western saddles. Once we were all on board, we headed out at a slow pace (even with no riding experience, anyone can enjoy this) over trails that wound through the over 450 acres that comprised the resort’s property. On our way we passed wildlife galore, including twittering birds, rabbits, and deer, curious about the four-legged intrusion. Up, up, up we went until we arrived at the top of the mountain, and were awed by the beautiful panorama of mountains glittering in the sun, and an endless blue sky. A piece of heaven, I thought.

Once back on our own two (a little wobbly) legs, we headed off to the resort’s Las Fuentes Restaurant & Bar, for an absolutely fabulous lunch. The starter I chose was Green Chile Corn Chowder, and I have to say it was the best soup I ever tasted.*Recipe below And the Crab Cakes that followed more than lived up to their reputation!

The afternoon was reserved for luxury! And so it was at Absolute Nirvana Spa, Tea Room & Gardens, just a short walk from La Posada. The spa is dedicated to the ancient art of using all organic plants, herbs and spices for both inner and outer beauty. The treatment I received, at the hands of the amazing Pamela Balanag, is called “The Deluxe” and it lasted a lovely 120 minutes. First, I sipped a fragrant elixir of golden champa and pikake flowers, a ritual food cleansing. This was followed by an hour-long massage with hot aromatic oils, a deeply penetrating mask, and then an invigorating scrub, after which I reveled in a private steam shower. After rinsing off, I was invited to luxuriate in a rose petal bath, while sipping hot Javanese ginger tea and nibbling on fruits and an organic homemade chocolate truffle. Wow! ($240) www.absolutenirvana.com

That evening, we stayed home for dinner at Fuego, La Posada’s AAA Four Diamond Award winning restaurant featuring innovative cuisine with a traditional French flair. The amazing menu, featuring delicacies designed by Executive Chef Mary Nearn, offered a great deal of temptation, but after a short period of soul searching I decided on the following. For the appetizer I chose Slivered Maine Scallops with Leek Velouté and Baby Radish and Pea Sprouts; for the salad course I tried the Tomato Trio which featured small tasty morsels of Heirloom Tomatoes, Tomato Essence and Concasse Canapé, and for the main course it was Roasted Duck Breast with Duck Confit Plum Compote and Braised Baby Fennel with Port Duck Sauce. One of Fuego’s specialties is its Cheese Cart featuring 14 of the finest Artisanal Selections from Around the World, and of course, who could say no to that?

The next morning we met up with several members of the innovative Sante Fe Mountain Adventure, a company whose goal it is to “thrill and rejuvenate the mind, body, and spirit”. The company specializes in arranging individual activities for visitors, including guided mountain biking trips, river rafting or geocaching, all geared to your level of experience. Or they can plan your entire vacation, including activities, lodging and transportation. On this particular day, our intrepid group was transported to the Santa Fe National Forest for a mountain biking experience, with bikes, helmets, water and other essentials provided by our guides. And what an experience it was for this reporter, who had not ridden a bike in at least 2 decades, and had never gone mountain biking at all! After a dubious start, including falling while trying to cross a dry arroyo, my confidence began to grow thanks to the patience, and strength, of what turned out to be my personal guide (everyone else rode off into the sunset), a charming Frenchmen named Georges Mally. With Georges both encouraging me, and pulling me up too-steep-for-me-hills while riding his bike at the same time, I nervously forged ahead Pretty soon I felt pretty good, so Georges and I picked up the pace and voila, there I was- a mountain biker. www.santafemountainadventure.com

Nestled in a small clearing surrounded by Aspen groves, with tall Ponderosa Pines visible in the distance, was an outdoor kitchen, which included a wood-burning cooktop for frying and grilling, and a fire pit for boiling. Rocky graciously plied us with wine and beer, most delicious after our long and strenuous day, and then put us to work making our own tortillas, an integral part of the Mexican-influenced meal to come. Salsa Fresca with organic vegetables and chips was the starter, with Guacamole, and Grilled Vegetable skewers to follow. But the delicious Outdoor Southwestern Paella with sliced Andouille amd Chorizo sausage, and sumptious Peach Cobbler which arrived bubbling and steamy from the outdoor grill, really made my day.

The next morning we got up early for a 9am Rio Grande river rendezvous with the New Wave Rafting Company, which offers trips from mild to wild. We chose the Half-Day Racecourse itinerary which featured 5-miles of exciting whitewater rapids (Class 3/Moderate), and was exciting enough for me. True-blue thrill-seekers though, will want to check out their full-day Taos Box itinerary (Class 4/Difficult and Class 5/Very Difficult, in high water) boasting 16-miles of non-stop rapids (I did this on a previous trip, and it’s not for the faint of heart!). The company provided all the necessary rafting equipment (paddles, helmet, and life-vest). www.newwaverafting.com

breakfasts, and gracious gardens (with cozy seating and WiFi), it had me wishing I could have stayed there, too. Casa de las Chimeneas Inn & Spa

 

My last night in New Mexico was spent at the remarkable Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa, where geothermal mineral waters have flowed from a subterranean volcanic aquifer for thousands of years. The resort itself is literally nestled in the shadow of very distinctive hills, adjacent to four steaming pools (80-109°) in 

EXTRAS

*For more about margaritas, don’t miss The Great Margarita Book written by Al Lucero, the owner and margarita master at Maria’s, with a forward by Robert Redford (apparently a big fan of Maria’s concoctions).

*Green Chile Corn Chowder

For garnish: